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Posts Tagged ‘self storage’

Spring Is a Good Time to Try Container Gardening — Part I

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

Maybe you don’t realize it, but several neighborhoods here in Denver are classified as “food deserts” — which means that in these neighborhoods, you can walk for miles without finding a store that will sell you fresh produce, even so much as an apple or banana. Residents of these neighborhoods get their groceries from convenience stores, which almost never carry fresh fruits or vegetables. At best, they might sport a potato or two, and maybe a few lemons or limes.

In Colorado, according to today’s Denver Post, we rank 37th in the nation in number of supermarkets per person in the state. Naturally, those supermarkets and grocery stores are concentrated in higher-income parts of town. Low income neighborhoods are the areas that are likely to fall within a food desert  – an area devoid of grocery stores. Nonprofit organizations and government agencies are working on this problem, but personally I don’t have a lot of faith that they’re going to make a big difference. I think we need a solution that will help people living in apartments deep in the heart of food deserts right away — or at least this season.

Here’s my solution: container gardening. Often when people downsize from a house to an apartment, they put all their old yard supplies and gardening supplies into storage. Some of those things definitely belong in storage. You can’t do much with a rake or a lawnmower when you move into an apartment. If you have a few large terra cotta pots, though, along with some potting soil, then you’re ready to set up a mini-garden in containers. You can put the containers on a balcony, if you have one, or you can use a windowsill or a sunny doorstep. Almost any vegetable that you can grow in the ground will grow equally well in a container. The best ones to try are tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, green onions, beans, lettuce, squash, radishes, and parsley. You can grow pole beans and cucumbers too, but they take a little more space because of their vines.

To start with, you need a container and soil. Even if you don’t have a standard pot, you can use almost any container that has drainage at the bottom, even a bushel basket. A planter box is ideal, but many ceramic pots work well too. Most vegetables will grow well in a five-gallon container. People have even grown crops in an upended potato bag, which has wonderful drainage. It will help the drainage, as well, if you can put about an inch of gravel at the bottom of the container. It’s best if the holes for drainage are along the sides, about 1/4″ – 1/2″ from the bottom. On top of the gravel, put your soil, which can be potting soil, or a synthetic soil mixture that you can obtain from a nursery or a gardening store. Many container gardeners feel that vegetables grow better in a synthetic soil. Put your soil into the pot, and add enough water to make it thoroughly damp.

Next you are ready to add your seedlings. You can grow your own seedlings from seeds. Egg cartons make a wonderful container in which to germinate seeds. Put them in an area that gets plenty of sunlight, and plant  your seeds about four to eight weeks before you plan to transplant the seedlings into your containers (yes, you’re going to have to make do with lemons, limes and potatoes for a little longer). When your seedlings have two or three leaves, you’ll know that you are ready to transplant them into your containers. And then the real fun begins.

Stay tuned for Part II: Taking Care of Your Container Garden!

Know Your Bike Paths — and Where to Get a Free Map of Them

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

It’s that time of the year–time to pull your bike out of storage. The weather is warming up, gas prices are still high, and there’s no harm in getting a little exercise before summer swimsuit season is upon us. But this year, there’s an added incentive for pulling your bike out of storage–this year, for the first time ever, you can get a free map of Denver’s bike routes. I know you’re shocked. But it is true. Now aren’t you glad you paid  your taxes?

Denver’s bike map used to be sold for $5. But this year we have a new map produced by the Denver Public Works, Denver Parks and Recreation, Denver GIS, and Denver Community Planning and Development. Not only is the new map free, but it is being made easily accessible — you don’t have to stop by a Denver Public Works office to get one. Instead,  you can pick one up at any Denver Rec center or at the City Council offices (next time you feel inclined to write an angry letter to your councilman or councilwoman, just stop by in person instead — that way you can pick up a bike map at the same time). You can also get a copy at Bike Denver and at most local bike shops.

But wait — it gets better. The newly improved, FREE Denver bike map is printed on water resistant paper. So if you tend to get sweaty when you’re biking (I know I do) or if you tend to spill the contents of your water bottle (I know I do) or if you simply tend to fall into a lot of puddles and ponds (I know I do!), worry no more. The paper will not smear or blotch and you will still be able to find your way back home again.

The new map even has a section explaining how to use bike hand signals, how to ride safely in traffic, and how Bike-n-Ride and Bike-on-Light-Rail works (something we’d all like to know).

Seriously, though, the new bike map is a great resource to have if you are going out to bike around Denver. While you are at it, take some time to do a quick safety check on your bike. Make sure the tires are full of air — the air tends to leak out when a bike is in storage. Fix any flat tires that you may have. (Bike Denver has a website explaining how.) Check that the wheels, handlebars, and seat of the bicycle are all securely fastened to the bike’s frame. To be certain of that, tighten any bolts that need tightening.

When you ride your bike, make sure that you wear a helmet, and at night, use a headlight, rearlight, and reflectors. Wear light-colored clothing at night as well, to make it easier for drivers to see you. A bicyclist or pedestrian in dark clothes can be almost invisible to the driver of a car or truck at night. Also, make sure that  you follow the same rules of the road that motorists use. The rules of driving also apply to bikes.

And,  if you need to fill up the space in your storage unit that is being vacated by your bike, just bring in your sleds, toboggans, skis, ski poles, ice skates, snowboards, and the like — we will make room!

Happy biking.

Let’s JAM: Caring for and Storing Your Bass

Monday, April 12th, 2010

No series on Jazz Appreciation would be complete without the bass. Like other stringed instruments (the violin, viola, cello, even the guitar), the bass is very sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. A climate-controlled environment is the safest option.

Your bass needs a certain amount of humidity to prevent its wood from cracking. When you have the bass in your home, it’s best to use a dampit (a humidifier made of a sponge inside a long tube, which can be placed inside a violin, viola, cello or bass) to humidify the instrument. When the bass is stored in an environment where the heat is on, especially if the temperature outside is below zero, a dampit can be essential to the preservation of the instrument.

Obviously, however, if you are putting the bass into self storage for a long period of time, however, you will not be able to check the dampit every day. In that case, make sure you choose a unit that is humidified.

Prior to storing the bass, make sure that you clean it (in fact, it is a good idea to clean it after each use). Clean and polish the instrument, using varnish cleaner from a music store. Use a soft cloth to wipe rosin off the strings. If the instrument has any cracks or is in need of other repairs, take care of those before you store it, so that the damage does not worsen over time. You may also want to loosen the strings, especially if you think that the instrument might experience changes in temperature while it is in storage. Temperature changes, like humidity changes, can cause the wood of an instrument to swell and shrink.

To pack a bass for moving or shipping, and for storage, first set aside any accessories, such as extra strings, and pack them separately, in a small box, or place them in the accessory compartment of your case, if it has one. You may need to add some soft packing material to the accessory compartment, to prevent its contents from shifting during the move. Then place your bass in its case, adding soft packing material in any extra air spaces, to prevent the bass itself from shifting during the move. Try not to use packing “peanuts” or “popcorn,” as these can leave tiny crumbs in the case that can be difficult to remove later. Whatever packing material you choose to use, though, make sure that the neck of your bass, in particular, has plenty of support to prevent it from moving during shipping.

In addition, you may want to put some folded paper between the strings and the body of the instrument.

For additional protection, if possible, pack the case inside a larger box, such as a bass shipping box. You may be able to get one from a local music store. This box will not only provide the bass with extra protection against physical shocks, but will also help to protect it from changes in temperature and humidity. The box should have two or three inches of space around the bass case on all sides. Fill that space with more of your soft packing material. Bubble wrap works well for this purpose, but you can also use crumpled newspapers. Make sure that no part of the case is touching the box. You may be able to slide your small accessory box, if you have one, inside this larger box.

When you are preparing to store the bass, do not put it into the trunk of a car unless you are ready to immediately transport it to a storage unit. Leaving it in the trunk during cold weather can cause drying and cracking, while leaving it in the trunk when the weather is hot can cause the glue to soften, joints to come apart, and varnish to soften and stick to your case.

Finally, you may want to consider insuring your bass while it is in storage. Most self storage facilities offer some form of insurance for the contents of units. I recommend insuring these beautiful instruments for at least their replacement value.

Once you have taken all these steps, you are ready to store your bass — until you or someone else is ready to play it again.

Let’s JAM: How to Care for, and Store, Your Drums

Sunday, April 11th, 2010

It’s time for article three of our series in honor of Jazz Appreciation Month, which means turning to the instrument you’ve all been waiting for: the drums.

Like other instruments, drums are sensitive to changes in air quality, such as fluctuations in air temperature and humidity. A climate-controlled environment is probably the best option for your drums. You will also want to protect the drums from dents and scratches that might otherwise occur during a move.

The best way to protect a drum set that you are going to store is to pack each drum in a good quality drum case, and to pack the cymbals in a cymbal case, but hard cases can be expensive.

Another way to protect your drums is to store them in a thick set of drum bags, minimizing their exposure to the air. You can also place some silica gel sachets in the bag with the drums — the silica will help to absorb any dampness in the air, protecting the drums from moisture damage and mold.

If you cannot afford cases or bags, you can pack the drums in a box, using thick, heavy blankets as packing material. Make sure that when you pack cymbals, you place them flat — do not put them into a box vertically. It may be tempting to slide the cymbals in vertically, if you have a space where they will fit. Resist the temptation. Cymbals are heavy and can gradually become warped by their own weight if they not stored flat (parallel to the floor). When you pack cymbals or drums in a box, line the bottom of the box with a towels or blanket, put the cymbal or drum in, and then place more towels or blankets on top. (If you are packing more than one cymbal, make sure that you put a layer of towel or blanket between cymbals as well — do not pack cymbals in direct contact with each other.) You may want to use rolled up towels alongside drums, to prevent them from shifting during moving.

Some people say that if there is no wear and tear on your drums, then you haven’t played them enough. I agree — but if you are putting your drums in storage, it’s important to protect them properly from the elements. Someday you, or someone you care about, may want to play those drums every day — and you will thank yourself if you have taken good care of the drums until that time.

More JAMming: How to Care For — and Store — Your Electric Guitar

Saturday, April 10th, 2010

In the second of our Jazz Appreciation Month series on the storage of musical instruments, we turn to that necessity for jazz musicians who want their music to be heard: the electric guitar. Electric guitars have been used in jazz since the 1930s, and in the 1940s, the electric guitar began to surpass the ordinary acoustic guitar, which cannot achieve the same volume, no matter how accomplished the musician.

A guitar can be stored in a bag or case, or on a stand. For long-term storage, however, the stand is not a wise solution. Stands leave the guitar open to the elements, and even indoors, guitars are at risk for damage from dust, dirt, and humid air. The more expensive the guitar, the more sensitive it may be to fluctuations in air temperature and humidity. A hard case will offer your guitar the most protection from the elements. A climate-controlled self storage unit, with a regular, unchanging temperature and humidity level, can also minimize the threat to your instrument’s well-being from changes in the weather.

Why are guitars so sensitive to changes in humidity? The strings, which are pulled taut, place the neck and body (particularly the bridge) under constant stress. Very humid air will cause the wood to swell. If the wood swells, the tension from the strings can cause the neck to bow or even pull the saddle out of the body. Very dry air can dry out the wood and crack the glue that is holding its seams together. The ideal humidity level is about 50 percent.

There are other ways to help protect your guitar from changes in air quality, however, besides storing it in a climate-controlled environment. Storing the guitar in a hard case will also minimize its exposure to changes in air temperature and humidity. Loosening the strings can also prevent bowing that might be caused by increases in humidity. It is always a good idea to loosen a guitar’s strings for storage, even if the storage is intended to be short-term.

You should also clean a guitar before storing it. In fact, you should really clean the guitar each time you play it. Otherwise, oil and sweat left on the instrument from your hands may remain on the strings, causing corrosion. Sweat or oil on the wood can damage the guitar’s finish. To prevent this kind of damage, wipe down the guitar’s neck and body with a soft cloth, and use an alcohol swab to clean the strings (do not use alcohol wipes on any wooden surfaces!). At a music store, you can buy cloth and wipes that are designed for your particular instrument.

Caring for an electric guitar properly can greatly prolong the life of your instrument. These wonderful instruments really do not belong in storage — you should be playing it on a regular basis. But, if you must store your guitar, take care to protect it from the elements. That way, this beautiful instrument can be ready for a musician who, someday, will give it the daily attention that it so much deserves.

Let’s JAM, Everybody! How to Care for — and Store — Your Sax

Sunday, April 4th, 2010

I’m sure you realize that this month is Jazz Appreciation Month. This is one month when any instrument that you may play certainly does not belong in storage. Pull it out of storage and let’s JAM!

If you do need to store an instrument, though — when you are done jamming — you’ll want to take good care of it, so we’re offering this series of tips on how to store musical instruments, with an emphasis on jazz-related instruments.

This time — how to store your sax (for some wonderful commentary on saxophone-playing in general, see http://www.mindworkshop.com/alchemy/saxophone.html, and for pictures of parts of the packing process, see http://www.cybersax.com/packsax.html):

  • When you are done playing a saxophone, you will want to dry it out (they have a tendency to get wet, and all that moisture can rot the leather pads in a sax and may even corrode the metal). The first step is to remove the sax’s neck, and then remove the mouthpiece.
  • Use a neck swab to absorb any moisture that may be left in the neck.
  • Then use a cleaning swab to swab out the rest of the interior of the instrument. Lower the end of the swab with the weight on it slowly into the bell of the horn and allow the end with the patch of silk or leather to follow it. Turn the saxophone over, allowing the swab to travel through the instrument’s body and out the other end.
  • Using a soft cloth, wipe down the outside of the instrument, taking care to remove any moisture. Take care to also remove any fingerprints or anything else that could corrode the finish.
  • Once the saxophone is clean, turn your attention to the mouthpiece and reed. Wash them in warm running water, and then use a mouthpiece brush to clean out the inside of the mouthpiece.
  • Make sure that the entire saxophone is dry before you store it.
  • To store the saxophone, use its case. This seems obvious, but it is an important step, because it helps to protect the sax from dents that may come from unexpected falls. You wouldn’t, for example, want to store a saxophone out in the open on a bookshelf, or leaning against a wall, because it could fall off, or be knocked down as you move other things, and be damaged.  Dents are expensive to repair and can change the way the saxophone sounds.
  • You may want to store the saxophone with neck snakes (wire rods covered with fluff) to absorb any remaining moisture, but if so, you may want to take the saxophone out of storage periodically and dry the neck snakes.
  • You should also put a neck plug in the saxophone while it is in storage–partly because storing instruments usually also involves moving them, and moving your saxophone in its case means that you might jar the neck into hitting the top of the case, which can damage the octave mechanism or the neck screws. Putting the neck plug in will prevent this kind of damage. A new saxophone will come with a neck plug, but if you have lost yours, you can get a new one from a music store — they are not expensive. You can also make your own by wrapping utility tape around a cork from a wine bottle.
  • Put all of the sax’s accessories into plastic bags. Wrap the mouthpiece separately, and then bag it along with the ligature, cap, strap, and reeds. Wrap the neck by itself in a soft cloth.
  • The accessories, in their bag, can be placed inside the saxophone case’s utility compartment. If there is none, wrap the accessories in bubble wrap and put them in a separate box.
  • Fill any leftover empty space in the utility compartment with soft packing materials, but don’t overfill it. You should be able to shut the door to the compartment easily.
  • Before you place your sax in its case, you may want to line the case with bubble wrap, and lay the instrument on the wrap. This will provide it with extra protection while it is being moved.
  • Check to make sure that no part of the instrument can move up and down in its case while it is being moved. If the instrument is still moving somewhat, add pieces of styrofoam or other packing material to prevent movement.
  • Cover the saxophone with a second layer of bubble wrap.
  • Close the case. Then put the entire case inside a cardboard box with plenty of soft packing material or packing “peanuts.” Then seal the box with packing tape, and label it.
  • Finally, take your saxophone to a storage facility that offers climate-controlled units, to further protect your instrument from damage caused by humidity. You may want to insure your instrument as well. Extra Space offers affordable insurance policies to cover the contents of your unit.

For more tips on how to store musical instruments, see “How to Store Musical Instruments,” at the national Extra Space site.

Easter Bunny Sighting? Maybe

Thursday, April 1st, 2010

Did you know that rabbits are crepuscular? I didn’t! But they are. That means that they prefer to come out at around twilight, when it is just getting dark — and they sleep much of the rest of the time.

I started thinking about the crepuscularity of rabbits because there have been so many sightings of them lately, right around dusk, in my neighborhood. It is spring, of course, and many animals are starting to become more active. They are active everywhere, not just around self storage facilities. Aren’t they?

Recently, several self storage operators have reported seeing bunnies at twilight. Coincidentally, there have been a lot of eggs around lately too. Other strange things have been happening as well. One operator even told me that her salad, which had a lot of carrots in it, disappeared right off the desk in her office yesterday. The same day that her salad disappeared, she found a wind-up chick marching up and down the sidewalk!

Another self storage operator emailed me to say that a new tenant came in dressed as a bunny (he said he was on his way to a costume party) and signed his lease as “P. Cottontail.” She wasn’t suspicious at first. But this Mr. Cottontail seemed rather nervous. You could almost call him twitchy. And he kept wrinkling his nose.

It’s true that self storage facilities are a wonderful place to store things that you will need for a special occasion. A self storage unit is the perfect place to squirrel (if you’ll forgive the expression)  Easter baskets, basket stuffing (such as fake grass), toy chicks and bunnies, little bottles of bubbles for bubble-blowing, plastic eggs, and other special Easter treats. And I do remember hearing that Santa used a self service kiosk at a self storage facility in North Pole, Alaska, last year, to rent a self storage unit in which to keep stocking stuffers until Christmas Eve. Even Santa can get short on space. But the Easter bunny would never rent a self storage unit…right?

Hmm.

You go ahead and read the rest of the blog entries. I’m going to go and check some security video archives…and dust for fingerprints. I mean pawprints…

Will Health Care Reform Help Self Storage Owner Operators?

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Do I have health insurance? Only my doctor knows for sure… In general, though, small business owners tend to be uninsured. About sixty percent of people who lack health insurance are small business owners or employees — and about 90 percent of self-storage companies are small businesses owned by a single entrepreneur, according to a national Self Storage Association fact sheet.

Let’s say that I don’t have health insurance. How will the new health care reform bill affect me?

Well, for starters, if I run a business with 50 or more employees, I will have to get health insurance — and provide it to my employees, or pay a fee. I will have to make sure that the health insurance I choose covers preventive care, and make sure that I pick a plan that covers dependent children up to age 26. On the other hand, if I do not have that many employees, and most self storage facilities do not, then I do not have to provide health insurance–but I can still choose from among the options provided by the health care reform bill.  I will have several choices (and at least one newspaper has reported that the Secretary of Health and Human Services will be providing a website that I can use to compare the choices that are available in my state):

  • I can buy health insurance from a private company, pay for it myself, and receive a tax credit for about 35 percent of the health insurance premiums that I pay for insurance for myself and my employees, assuming I have ten or fewer employees.  If I earn up to 400 percent of the poverty level, I can get a federal subsidy to help pay for my health insurance.
  • If my income is low enough, I may be able to use Medicaid as my health insurance.
  • As of 2014, I can choose to participate in a SHOP — a Small Business Health Option Program offered by the states. This means I can pool my resources with those of other businesses and buy health insurance together, cooperatively, for all our employees. By participating in a SHOP I can get tax credits covering 50 percent of my employees’ health insurance premiums for two years.

Those are the basics. Everyone seems to be arguing about whether or not health insurance is going to cost small businesses more under health care reform. For most small businesses, and most self storage companies, except for small businesses in the lowest income brackets, it seems that the answer will be yes, if we did not provide health insurance before and now are going to be providing it. For small business owners who were already buying health insurance, it seems that the answer may be no — health insurance may become more affordable, or become an option for the first time ever, as a result of subsidies and cooperatives like these SHOPs, and as a result of tax credits and federal subsidies.

Is health care reform worth the possibility of added expenses — for small businesses or for the government? Well — all I can say is, it looks like we’re going to find out.

[Note: several facts in this blog entry were corrected on March 30 at 1:55 p.m.]

Self Storage Could Benefit Farmers…If They Gave It A Chance

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

Yesterday, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack announced that the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Farm Storage Facility Loan Program will now allow farmers to build their own cold storage facilities, in which to store fresh fruits and vegetables. The program is funded by the 2008 Farm Bill, in which Congress authorized the USDA to use federal money to pay for cold storage of produce.

I realize that on-farm storage can be an important time-saver for many farmers. Large, commercial farms, in particular, may need some form of cold storage directly on site. However — I suspect that large, commercial farmers already have the cold storage that they need, because they couldn’t do business without it. I think the Farm Storage Facility Loan Program is directed at small and middle-sized farmers. And I have to say that something about this doesn’t compute.

I’m not trying to prevent farmers from receiving the funding and tools that they may need. Like all of us, I’m very grateful for the work that farmers do. I love fruits and vegetables. Couldn’t live without them. In fact, I eat more fruits and vegetables than anything else. So I understand how important it is to store produce at the correct temperature in order to keep it fresh.

But am I the only one who thinks there’s something crazy about building cold storage for farmers to use only at certain times of the year, when particular fruits and vegetables are being harvested?

It is possible to find cold, refrigerated storage that is available temporarily, for a few weeks or months at a time, and is priced affordably. Let me think…where could someone find such a thing? Temporary. Short term. Cold. Climate-controlled. Storage. Affordable. These sound like key words or Internet search terms that would lead a search engine directly to this website!

Obviously, I’m talking about self-storage. We provide cold, climate-controlled, and in many cases refrigerated, storage for all kinds of purposes. We provide temporary refrigerated storage for restaurants. We provide climate-controlled wine cellars for wine collectors. What is more, we have trucks that can be used to move inventory in and out of storage. Of course, it would be convenient for farmers to have cold storage right on their farms. But produce can only be stored on a farm temporarily. Sooner or later — and preferably, for everyone’s health, sooner — fruits and vegetables have to be transported away from the farm, if the farmer is hoping to use them to earn an income. All that produce has to be taken to market. That being so, it seems to me that transporting fruits and vegetables temporarily to a facility that only has to be leased during the time period when cold storage is actually needed might not be that great an inconvenience.

Farmers, if you need it, take advantage of the new cold storage funding available from the Farm Storage Facility Loan Program. But I don’t think it’s the best deal out there. I think the best deal you’ll find is at your local self-storage facility.

And the rest of you–buy those fruits and vegetables and make sure you eat them. They’re good for you!

Farewell to former Interior Secretary Stewart Udall

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

Stewart Udall, Secretary of the Interior under presidents John F. Kennedy and Lyndon Johnson, died earlier today at the age of 90.  For anyone interested in conservation, Udall’s death is a real loss. During his tenure as Secretary of the Interior, he was an advocate for maintaining and preserving land in its natural state whenever possible. But he was also an advocate of preserving and restoring historic buildings — like Carnegie Hall, which he helped to save when it was slated to be demolished in 1960 (at the time, the plan was for Lincoln Center to replace Carnegie Hall, and for the Carnegie site to become the location for a new office building).

I don’t know whether former Secretary Udall ever gave much thought to self-storage. But if he did, I suspect he must have approved of the concept. Why? Self-storage can reduce the carbon footprint left by businesses and individuals.

First of all, self-storage businesses are a natural advocate of the reduce, reuse, recycle movement — especially the reuse part. When people take things out of storage, they generally do so to either reuse it themselves or to give it to, or sell it to, someone who will reuse it. Clothing and household goods taken out of storage frequently gets donated to worthy organizations, like children’s hospitals and winter coat drives.  In fact, self-storage businesses often serve as collection points for donations for community organizations. Or, items that have been in storage get sold on eBay or Craig’s List to someone who will make good use of it.

Although self-storage can be a checkpoint on the way to recycling or reusing unneeded items, our units are also frequently used by people and businesses who are actively trying to reduce their carbon footprints by occupying smaller spaces. Putting seasonal items in storage can make it possible to live in — and provide heat and electricity for — a smaller home. For businesses, putting inventory in storage can mean using extra space only temporarily, when it is really needed — instead of expanding a facility and then heating it even when parts of it are not being used.

Of course, self-storage can be misused — used to support a consumeristic lifestyle, used as a way for materialistic excesses to spill over, outside the home, into more and more space. In fact, that’s the stereotype. But the stereotype doesn’t match what I see happening in practice — especially not in this economy. What I see is people making do with less and finding ways to reuse or repurpose the things that they have rather than throwing them away. And that’s a goal I think Stewart Udall would have supported unreservedly.

Goodbye, Stewart Udall. We’ll try to follow along in your footsteps.

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